A Day in Parque Arvi

ParqueArvi4576

Traveling to foreign cities is great and all, but after a few days I usually find myself longing for some peace and quiet and the greenery of the natural world. The hustle and bustle wears me down.

So to my delight, I discovered that Medellin is home to Parque Arvi, a 16,000 hectare wooded park just a short metro and cable car ride away from downtown.

The park is both a nature preserve where residents and tourists alike can escape city life for a few hours and it’s also an archaeological site that features pre-hispanic artifacts and ruins. Part of the Pre-Hispanic trail – the Camino Cieza de León – actually runs through it.

HOW TO GET THERE

I took the metro from the Poblado Station to the Acevedo Station then transferred to the Line K cablecar that whisked me up the slopes of the valley and over corrugated-tin roofed houses packed together side by side to the barrio of Santo Domingo. The cablecars – or gondolas – may be my favorite feature of Medellin. They give you a fantastic birdseye view over the valley in which Medellin (and several other municipalities) sit and what’s even more impressive is that they’re not simply a tourist attraction. In fact, I’ve seen very few tourists on the cablecars during my rides up and down. Instead, they were built to help the lower-strata families that live higher up on the valley walls get down into the city for work. Medellin has some pretty cool social projects going on. Check out another one – the escalators in Comuna 13 – here.

ParqueArvi4608

Once at Santo Domingo, I transferred to the Line L cablecar that took me even farther up the valley walls and over the ridge into the park. The corrugated-tin roofed houses gave way to fincas (farms) with grazing cattle strewn about then the view below opened up to a huge expanse of wild forest that stretched out as far as I could see. I felt like I was soaring above Jurassic Park!

At the top, I exited the cablecar and was greeted by a small farmers market selling all sorts of goodies: fried empanadas, sausages, and arepas, handmade jewelry, small cups of coffee and locally made mountain wine (which was too sweet for my taste). I bought a cheese arepa to snack on then headed out to find some trails.

WHAT TO DO

Apparently and unfortunately, I discovered that you can’t actually walk most of the trails in the park by yourself and the only tour leaving within the next half hour was a short orchid walk in Spanish, which didn’t appeal to me all that much. So I resigned to walking down a winding paved road (you can also drive to the park, but it takes a lot longer and isn’t nearly as fun) for 40 minutes to a section of the park where I could explore solo – Chorro Clarin (clear stream). I had no idea what to expect, so I was pretty excited when I emerged into this:

ParqueArvi4572

ParqueArvi4598

There’s a paved trail that follows the stream for a few miles and alongside the path there are day camp sites and overnight campsites equipped with picnic tables, benches, aesthetically designed shelters and even flat concrete tent platforms for camping. Colombia has its priority straight.

ParqueArvi4592

On the way back, I figured I had two options: option one was to walk back up the road I had come down (boring) or option two was to discreetly set foot onto the Flora Trail that would spit me out about a quarter of a mile up the road from the cable car station – right next to the carabineros station, or mounted policemen. I chose option two of course, hoping that the rule against walking the trails by yourself wasn’t for safety reasons (after all, there are police on horseback in the park, right?). I think I made the right choice 🙂

WHERE TO EAT

Hungry after my hike, I followed signs to a vegetarian restaurant and was greeted by an exuberant hostess who quickly sat me down and served up the most delicious multi-course menu del dia made from organic produce grown right next door. If you made it to  Parque Arvi, don’t miss this spot!

ParqueArvi4605

HOW TO GET THERE Take the metro to Acevedo Station then transfer to the K line cablecar which will bring you to Santo Domino. No need to exit the metro station. At Santo Domingo follow signs to Parque Arvi and transfer to cablecar Line L that will take you into the park.

COST The entrance to Parque Arvi is free, but the cablecar line J up to the park costs CP 5,200 ($1.70) one way

WHAT TO DO Spend some time browsing the stalls at the farmers market (it’s larger on weekends) and grab a snack before hitting the trails. Tours of the park can be arranged at the tourist information booth straight ahead as you exit the cablecar station. If you want to explore on your own, follow the paved path out to the road then turn left toward El Tambo. At the crossroads of El Tambo turn right and continue down the road for 30 minutes or so until you see a sign on the left pointing toward Chorro Clarin. There’s a hacienda on the right. On the way back from Chorro Clarin either retrace your footsteps or find the Flora Trail on the left just as you pass the hacienda.

WHERE TO EAT The vegetarian restaurant across the street from the cablecar station. Also check out the coffee truck and the local beer stand

Colorful Comuna 13 and the Escaleras Electricas

Comuna13_4395

Not too long ago, Medellin was considered one of the most dangerous cites in the world primarily due to the violence of drug cartels, gangs, and guerrilla warfare. But today, it’s frequently named as one of the most innovative cities in the world thanks to progressive urban planning initiatives and the resilience of its people.

Go back fifteen or twenty years, though, and the city was a far cry from what it is today. Comuna 13, a neighborhood high above Medellin on the valley’s western mountainous slope, is where the majority of the violence and homicides occurred. It was known as the most dangerous neighborhood in the city in its day (albeit most neighborhoods were pretty dangerous back then, I think). But like the city of Medellin as a whole, Comuna 13 has made some tremendous strides and is now home to a plethora of beautiful street art, talented street performers and the famous Escaleras Electricas (escalators) that have allowed residents to more easily ascend and descend the steep streets leading to and from the community.

Comuna13_4382

You can see the orange-rimmed escaleras to the right

A few days ago, Johnston (a friend from California who’s riding his motobike all the way down to the tip of Argentina and just so happened to be in Medellin the same time I was – small world, right?) and I set out to explore the neighborhood of Comuna 13. We took the metro to San Javier station then boarded a bus that took us to the top of the escalators. Once at the top, we explored the colorful streets filled with exquisite murals, watched street performers take their turns at showing the crowd their breakdancing moves, and sampled snacks from the street food vendors lined up along the sidewalk.

Comuna13_8108

Comuna13_4394

Comuna13_4375

 

From there, we descended the 6 escalators that, together, zigzag down the steepest part of the neighborhood. It was quite remarkable, actually, to have such modern conveniences right alongside some of the poorest homes in the city. Like the metro system in Medellin, though, I could tell that the residents are quite proud of these escalators. They’re clean, they’re well maintained, and they have no doubt improved the quality of life for the residents of Comuna 13. If you ever find yourself in Medellin, I highly recommend checking out this incredible neighborhood!

Comuna13_4404

Comuna13_4405

Comuna13_4409

 

SaveSaveSaveSave

La Minorista Market

One of the things I love most about traveling far and wide is the food. Finger-licking street food, exotic fruits and veggies, delicious local specialties, fresh drinks, hole-in-the-wall joints – everywhere I go there is something new and exciting to introduce my tastebuds to. More often than not, in fact, I plan my day (and even trips!) around where and what I want to eat.

MinoristaMarket4321

Since I love food so much, I try to delve deep in the local food scene at least once during trip (usually many times more). In the past this has included a cooking class in Laos, pinxto tasting in Spain, street food sampling in Oaxaca, a farm-to-table dinner in England, buying fresh cheese from a remote dairy in France, etc… you get the point. I like local foods and local food culture.

These past few days in Colombia have been no different – I’ve sampled the traditional Colombian stew – ajiaco – piled high with toppings, I’ve eaten buttery and cheesy arepas from street vendors, I’ve gulped down freshly made guarapo (sugarcane and lime), and I’ve eaten the best churro I’ve ever had in my life – it was perfectly deep fried, lightly coated with sugar, and filled with a delicious sweet custardy caramel!

But in addition to sampling local foods, I wanted to do something a bit more educational so I signed up for an Exotic Fruit tour at the Minorista Market, a huge food market in downtown Medellin that sells everything from bananas to corn off the cob to fresh queso.

Now I’m not one to usually do tours, my style of travel is typically to do some research on the places I’m interested in visiting then strike out on my own to explore and hopefully not get lost. But the more I travel, the more I’ve come to enjoy small, well-crafted, off-the-beaten-path tours. I’ve learned that I actually miss quite a bit when I don’t have a local to show me around.

Before the tour started, though, I had one obstacle to overcome – figuring out how to ride the metro system. Public transportation is always a bit intimidating for me (and I’m sure many other people) when I’m in a new country because there are so many different ways things could go wrong: get on the wrong bus, head in the opposite direction, miss a stop, get pickpocketed, etc… but I’ve found that once you jump in and start working out the system, it’s really not that hard at all. The Metro in Medellin is actually one of the easiest, cleanest, and safest transit systems I’ve ever taken, including the US!

Quick side story – the people of Medellin are incredibly proud (not in a bad way) people because of the violent, terrible history they’ve endured during Pablo Escobar’s reign and the FARC. Since Escobar’s death and the FARC’s downfall, though, the city has undergone a major renaissance and it’s quite miraculous how efficient, clean, progressive, and community-orientated the city is. The metro was one of their major city improvements in the early 2000’s and they’re extremely proud of it. There are two lines of Metro trains that run above the city, two Metroplus bus lines that have their on lanes on the roads, and five cable cars (or gondolas) that whisk people away up the sides of the valley’s mountainous walls. It’s quite the system and it works to a T. Since it’s the pride of the city, it’s also quite safe and very clean.

So once I found my way to the entrance of the Minorista Market (45 minutes early because I wasn’t sure how the metro would go), I met three other gringos who were on the tour and Diana, our Colombian tour guide who would take us through the market.

MinoristaMarket4339

MinoristaMarket4342

We entered through a side entrance and were immediately met with a slew of different smells, colors, textures, and sounds. There were stalls displaying just fruits, stalls piled high with eggs, stalls with men slicing corn kernels off the cob, stalls with women cooking arepas over hot coals, and stalls jam-packed with traditional medicines and potions. Colombians are very superstitious and have remedies for everything from love elixirs to garnering luck for gambling. Later, we came across the stalls selling blocks of fresh cheese, stalls displaying fresh and dried meats, and stalls showcasing all sorts of different seafood.

MinoristaMarket4331

MinoristaMarket4326

Our focus for the day, though, were the fresh fruits. In all, we tasted about 15 different Colombian-grown fruits. Some of them I’ve had before, like guava and passion fruit, and others I had never even set eyes on before, like the west Indian locust and Spanish limes. All were tasty, but admittedly some better than others. I wasn’t a fan of the peach palm until we covered it with salt and honey, then it was delicious, and I could take or leave the tomato de arbol. The west Indian locust was a trip too. The outer pod is incredibly hard and typically cracked open by a very special too – a hammer. Inside, the fruit is light brown color and resembles freeze dried ice cream. Seriously. It’s chalky and powdery, but the taste is actually quite good – nothing like anything I’ve every tasted before. After ruminating on it a bit, I gave it the thumbs up!

Screen Shot 2017-12-11 at 10.40.45 AM

My favorites out of all the fruits, though, were the Spanish limes, known as mamonchillos, and dragon fruit, which I think are a lot of people’s favorites. Mamonchillos reminded me of lychees – they’re small and round and have a huge pit in the middle surrounded by a fleshy sweet/sour fruit. You suck on them and slowly peel the fruit off with your teeth. Diana told us that parents give their kids mamonchillos when they’re making too much noise.

After about 2 1/2 hours in the market we had made our way through 15 different fruits, 1 arepa, and 1 glass of freshly made juice. I was more than full and slightly queasy from all the different things churning around in my stomach, but I was definitely glad I had signed up for the tour. It had answered my questions about what many of the fruits were that I had been eyeing throughout this trip and throughout many of my previous trips to other tropical places around the world. Now I won’t be relying solely on mangos and bananas when I visit the local markets 🙂

MinoristaMarket4350

SaveSave

Biking Through Medellin

Give me a choice on how to explore a city and I’ll pick ‘by bike’ every. single. time. For me, it’s the perfect way to get to know a place. By bike you can:

  • Cover more ground than walking
  • Go where cars can’t go
  • Lock it up and continue to explore by foot
  • Get some exercise!
  • Impress the locals (or piss them off depending on your biking skills…)

While today’s ride wasn’t my first rodeo when it comes to biking through a city – I’ve biked through Ecuador, Bangkok, Barcelona, Seattle, etc…) it may have been the wildest, in the best sense of the word.

_DSF4273

One of the first things I do when researching ‘things to do’ in a new city or country is to google ‘bike tours’. More often than not, I get a hit and for Medellin it was no different – Medellin Bike Tours looked legit.

After spending a day getting acquainted with the city, I met my bike guide, Dan, and Liam, another crazy adventure seeker, in the neighborhood of Laurales, about a 15 minutes by taxi from where I’m staying in the ever so trendy and way too touristy neighborhood of El Poblado. Had I known better, I definitely would have booked an Airbnb in Laurales to 1: save money and 2: not be immediately identified as a tourist. Next time, I guess.

But anyway, I met Dan and Liam in the basement of a high-rise where Dan has set up his tiny one-room, bike-bedecked office. After signing waivers, getting fitted with bikes and gear, and swapping emergency phone numbers ‘just in case’ we hit the streets of Medellin. Right off the bat we were thrown into a crisscross of swiftly moving cars, bold pedestrians, and other bikers attempting to muscle their way through the mess. It was chaos! Thankfully I’ve had plenty of experience navigating busy roads, but I think poor Liam was a bit taken aback at first. All three of us made in through intact, though, and found our way to a pleasant two-way bike path that paralleled the busy street. Only for a short while, of course, then we were back on the defense.

Our first stop was at the top of Cerro el Volador, a small mountain in the middle of Medellin. Cerro el Violator was apparently the go-to place to off poor citizens in the Pablo Escobar era. Not a pleasant history at all, but it had pretty views of the surrounding city.

_DSF4264

_DSF4257

From there, we cruised back down the hill and made our way to the Botanical Gardens, but not before tasting the delicious and so very refreshing taste of guarapo – a Colombian concoction made solely of sugarcane and lime juices. Dan has his go-to lady for the best guarapo in Medellin and even though it was my first taste of the stuff, I have to agree. It was the best. Think margarita without the tequila. I know that probably sounds pretty disappointing, but after we had been out biking in the hot sun for a few hours, fighting through thongs of cars and motorcycles, it tasted pretty magical!  Half the fun was also watching her press the sugarcane and limes through her industrial looking guarapo machine.

_DSF4279

 

 

After we had our fill of the sugary stuff, we walked our bikes into the Botanical Gardens, which was a great reprieve from the busy, noisy streets of downtown Medellin. It was almost like we had stepped into a different world. Inside, we stopped at a quaint little lake where larger than expected iguanas sat up high on thick tree limbs giving us the cold stare, birds of all sizes strutted and flitted about, and turtles basked one on top of each other in the middle of the water. Families, lovers, and individuals alike enjoyed the peaceful setting as the city whirled around outside the walls.

_DSF4297

_DSF4295

After the Botanical Gardens, our ride evolved (or devolved?) into even more of a chaotic whirlwind adventure. Dan, apparently impressed by our intracity biking skills, decided to take us into the heart of downtown where the streets were even more crowded with cars and smoke-billowing motorcycles, sidewalks were filled to the brim with people and things, and pickpocketers were on high alert for inattentive gringos. Despite all these potentially day-ruining factors, though, I honestly felt safe. The drivers were all respectful of our space, pedestrians gave us the right of way (most of the time) and as long as we didn’t flaunt cameras or iPhones, I didn’t feel threatened in the least by opportunists.

Somewhere amid all that craziness, we emerged onto the Plaza de Botero – a large square studded with a handful of Botero’s famous and proportionally challenged sculptures. There was a large horse with a small head, a curvy woman with huge thighs and a tiny waist, a soldier man with a six-pack and microscopic you-know-what… the sculptures were both evocative and puzzling and I would have liked to have spent more time wandering among them, but we had a schedule to keep.

 

 

Continuing on our way, it wasn’t long before we emerged back onto sane – or what we now called sane – streets and made our way to our last few destinations of the day: Parque de la Luz with its iconic tall pillars that light up like hundreds of beacons at night, the EPM building (and business) that has helped shape Medellin into what it is today through hundreds of forward thinking community projects, and finally the cute but touristy Pueblito Paisa that sits at the top of Cerro Nutibara, another small hilltop in the middle of the city. As we sat on a stone bench and recuperated from the hot climb up, we treated ourselves to another delicious Colombian concoction – salpicón de frutas – basically a delicious tropical fruit gazpacho with chunks of papaya, banana, and watermelon

The afternoon thunderclouds were rolling in and it was looking like it was going to rain, so we sped back down the hill and navigated our way through traffic one last time. At one point, I heard Liam behind me exclaim “I’m getting the hang of this!” And then we were back at the start – tired, thirsty, hungry, sweaty, sunburned, but throughly delighted over the days adventure.

_DSF4312

_DSF4313